Cuisine connoisseurs can find the taste of the big city in quaint Lexington, home of the area's newest restaurant getting rave reviews.

Located in the trendy Smackwater Block in downtown Lexington, The Vintage is serving up an eclectic menu of French-inspired cuisine from Executive Chef Doug Ryan of Port Huron, formerly of the Tribute Restaurant in Farmington Hills.

"The thing my husband and I most enjoy is having something in our area that's that good," said Linda Bhesania of Port Huron Township, who favored a mushroom risotto dish during a visit with her husband, Dr. Zubin Bhesania. "To have a fine-dining restaurant where you don't have to leave the area is wonderful. It's the best of everything, and the presentation is just beautiful," she said.

Two other gems enriching the local cultural landscape in the Smackwater Block are the additions of the Brewmasters Pub and The Tasting Room.

It's all good

They serve as president and vice president, respectively, of the Smackwater Development Corp., which sparked the 37,000-square-foot development on Huron Avenue in downtown Lexington.

The first business, Aroma's Coffee House and Bakery, opened in August 1999, followed by Smackwater Jack's Bistro and Deli, Gallery 7318 Home Furnishings and Gifts, Gallery Studios custom woodworking shop, and the Lexington Music Theatre.

Yet, you'll most likely find the couple working the floor, behind the bar or anywhere in between.

"We're hands on to make sure the quality is there consistently," Buschbacher said. "We're consistently adding to the business."

They believe Lexington, with its quaint charm, can become a tony tourist destination, giving communities on the state's west side some competition.

"It's just, it's my hometown," Buschbacher said. "We all want to go back. Lexington is in need of growth and deserves it. We decided to speed up the clock. This will be an alternative to Harbor Springs and Traverse City on this side of the state."

"It's something we wanted to do, something that was so badly needed," Wojtowicz said. "We want to grow our town in a good way. Now that people can see it can happen, we hope it encourages more of the same."

Old-world ambiance

"It's extraordinarily authentic," said Buschbacher. Lexington was incorporated as a village in 1855.

"It was built true to the period, from the 1850s to the early 1900s," Buschbacher said. "There's a lot of specialized woodworking in all of the historic buildings in Michigan. They're all from the same architecture of the time. We've tried to keep the same authentic architecture but added a little European flair to it."

Buschbacher himself designed and carved the intricate wood pieces throughout in The Vintage and the Smackwater Block. His woodworking talent was self-taught from watching his father, Jack Buschbacher, a former Detroit firefighter and mechanic.

Below the building lies a 5,000 square-foot custom woodworking shop where Buschbacher and Gary Lee of Marysville have done their crafting for the past eight years.

In sharp contrast, a step through the kitchen doors transforms you forward in time. Its high-tech appearance includes contemporary cooking components and shiny chrome floors. Its size is equal to the dining areas, with 1,400 square feet.

"It's almost space age in a sense," Buschbacher said. "We take a lot of people through the kitchen. We love to do that. We love to show them how clean and high tech it is.

"I wanted it to be a dream kitchen, and Chef Ryan is extremely excited about working his craft in this kitchen."

Fine fare

"Our goal that we started with when we opened The Vintage is to be rated as one of the best restaurants in Michigan," Buschbacher said. "We're not backing off on that. It's our goal."

The Vintage offers three rooms for intimate dining including French Country, English and Mission that accommodate from four to 50 people.

Multi-course meals are one of a kind, with different weekly selections. Thirty percent of the menu changes every three weeks.

Ryan, originally from Carsonville, is a graduate of the Cordon Bleu Culinary School in Chicago.

"The magic in the kitchen creates levels of flavors never experienced before," Buschbacher said. "My dream has been far exceeded from the quality of the cuisine from the kitchen."

Ann (CleVEland) Murphy of Fort Gratiot, who dined at The Vintage with her husband, Dr. John Murphy, said it's nice to enjoy upscale dining in a dressy-casual atmosphere where you don't feel uncomfortable without a gown or coat and tie.

"It's a wonderful addition to the area," Murphy said. "The food is just excellent, and the servers are wonderful. It's a real treat for your palate. We're really fortunate."

There's more

Brewmasters Pub has 12 signature ales on tap each night, but don't be fooled by its name - there's no brewing going on.

Buschbacher said the pub got its name from the annals of local history.

"Years ago, I bought a house in town that was built by the town's brewmaster in 1870," he said. "I bought it thinking I would turn it into an inn to be called Brewmasters Pub. It's to keep the brewmaster's legacy alive and just keep the candle burning.

There's also a vintage cocktail menu created by Wojtowicz with favorites such as a Tom Collins, Velvet Hammer and Rusty Nail.

"We've tried to stay true to the drinks and the history behind them," Buschbacher said. "It's a vintage cocktail menu that's historically correct."

The Tasting Room offers a variety of wines along with several appetizers and fondues such as White Chocolate Frangelico.

General Manager Chad McVay doubles as the wine specialist. He combines a bit of wine education with an enjoyable evening of sampling.

A flight of wine provides tasting portions, so you can skip the standards and experiment with possibly a South African sauvignon blanc.

"I call it the hip place to dine," Buschbacher said. "You not only get a night out but get a little schooling, too. It makes you fully understand what you're drinking."

Stay tuned

"We're not finished yet," Buschbacher said. "We want to do another development and create more of what we have."

He declined to give specifics other than to say it would be "more of the same."

Next up is an April 12 grand opening being planned for the completion of the Smackwater Block. U.S. Rep. Candice Miller, R-Harrison Township, is expected to attend.

"We're giving people what I think people deserve as human beings," Buschbacher said.

"We want to experience the very best in life. When they visit the Smackwater Block, they're enlightened. They're not looking for something more. We chose the very best."