SUPERMARKET SOMMELIER: Thumb’s up        

By Ging of the Oakland Press.  Published:  Monday, August 31, 2009                                   

 

The first pioneers to the Thumb of Michigan may have arrived as early as the 1700s, most likely French traders and trappers. Wine lovers.

They were then followed by a wave of Scots-Irish, English and German immigrants who moved west from eastern states of New York, Pennsylvania and New England. More wine lovers. Many of the customs, and much of the regional lifestyle, strongly reflect these European origins and make the Thumb a thriving agricultural region.

Connie Currie and Steve Velloff are modern day pioneers to the Thumb. Moving the opposite direction, east from Chicago, they had the same fortitude and courage as the early settlers and were determined to turn their passion and dreams into reality. They purchased the Holverson farm in 2004 with the hopes of turning this 1886 farm into a vineyard and winery. Blue Water Winery and Vineyard is about  7 1/2 miles north of Lexington, just west of M-25 on Holverson Road.

After much renovation, the land, the house, the barn, Connie and Steve planted their first Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir vines in 2005. Next came a period of three years while the vines grew and could produce enough grapes to harvest and turn into wine. And after four years of coaxing premium wine grape vines to grow in a climate and terroir (wine snob for soil) meant for sugar beets and corn, Blue Water Winery has released their first three vintages with five more expected in mid-September.

Blue Water Winery is not a big fancy operation like you would see in California or Western Michigan. No wine snob pretense, just a warm welcoming Michigan farm run by two incredibly knowledgeable, warm, welcoming people. I know I wouldn’t be so welcoming when strangers show up at my doorstep late Sunday morning, uninvited.

I toured the farm and the vineyards, and we talked about their early challenges that now sounded like happy memories. But despite the hard work, there was still time for creativity and innovation. Two of the three available wines have glass closures. While very popular in Europe, this is the first time they are in use in Michigan. The glass stopper creates a seal that prevents oxidation and cork taint. But the biggest advantages — bottles do not require a cork screw to open, and the stopper makes it easy to recork the bottle.

But I have to state a disclaimer; Blue Water Wines are not less than $10 a bottle. They range from $12 to $14.99 and are only available for purchase at the winery. But, there is a generous case discount and the day trip to Lexington and Port Sanilac, the vineyard tour and the conversation is well worth the extra couple of bucks. So, I broke the rules. And with the discount on a case, two of three wines ended up just under $10. We all deserve a treat once in a while.

This week’s selection were all purchased and tasted at the winery:

The Red: Michigan Cabernet Franc 2007 – Blue Water Winery

The White: Michigan Semi-Dry Riesling 2008 – Blue Water Winery

The Other: Michigan Chambourcin 2008 – Blue Water Winery

Blue Water Winery Michigan Cabernet Franc 2007 received a LST grade of B. This was the driest of the three wines selected. It had a nice ruby red color, oaky taste and smelled like black raspberries. For my taste, this was a little too fruity and dry. But that’s my taste, you decide. If you like a dry wine that is smoother tasting and with less tannin than Cabernet Sauvignon, you should give it a try. It was $14 a bottle.

Blue Water Winery Michigan Semi-Dry Riesling 2008 received a LST grade of A. This was a great Riesling that could stand up against any of the West Coast Michigan award winners. This Riesling has a light amber or golden yellow color. It smelled very much like apples and tasted very crisp and sweet. Blue Water Winery has been able to produce a well balanced, between acidity and sugar, versatile wine that would work well with just about any food, and especially spicy Thai or Chinese dishes. It was $12 a bottle.

Blue Water Winery Michigan Chambourcin 2008 received a LST grade of A. This was my favorite. Deep purple in color, smelled like cherries and had a somewhat dry, slightly spicy taste. Chambourcin grapes are a French/American hybrid grown mostly here in the Midwest. This grape likes a warm, humid summer, perfect for Michigan, except most of this summer. This red is perfect for grilled goods; $12 a bottle.

I do suggest making the 90-minute trip to Blue Water Winery and Vineyard. They are open 1-5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. For more information, check their Web site at www.bluewaterwinery. com.  You could even make a weekend “stay-cation” out of the trip.

Remember, you don’t have to pay a lot to enjoy a great bottle of wine. Look, smell, taste, you decide.

If you would like to comment on our selections or share you own opinion, e-mail. Supermarketsommelier@ oakpress.com